Quiet luxury for drinking: an exclusive visit to the Chanel wineries

Chanel has a knack for classics. Tweed jacket, camellia brooch and? never get old, on the contrary. Their value increases, like that of a bottle of good red wine. Seen this way, it is almost logical that Chanel also has wines in its portfolio. Even if the work as a winemaker is as discreet as the owner family itself. Nothing on the labels or the goods in France indicates the fashion house. Only at second glance do you notice that the mixed race of the chief technician, François Baudoux, wears two intertwined Cs on his collar and that the bathrooms smell of Chanel soaps??

In 1994, Chanel acquired the Château Rauzan-Ségla, in 1996 the Château Canon, and in 2017 the Château Berliquet. Historic lands in Margaux and Saint-Émilion with fantastic terroirs? the haute couture of winegrowing, so to speak. The castles from the 17th and 18th centuries were renovated, the gardens redesigned, and the living spaces were furnished by Chanel's house and yard interior architect Peter Marino. And the vineyards were extensively restructured. Everyone who works here is a master of his craft: from the chefs with a fine dining background, to the technician who tirelessly tests new biological processes with his team, to the gardener who collects historical plants and dreams of mini pigs under the vines. Everyone burns for their passion. Everyone knows how lucky they are to be able to use their creativity to lead a valuable cultural heritage into the future.

The head of the whole thing is Nicolas Audebert. The oenologist and agricultural engineer has been in the wine business for over 25 years and has been with Chanel since 2014. He fundamentally changed the dynamic because he brought the goods from both sides of the river together. (Background: In Bordeaux there is competition between the right and left banks of the Gironde.) "We would rather build bridges than put up walls," says the globetrotter as he takes us along. First over the fields of Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux, then on by boat over the Gironde to Saint-Émilion to the smaller estates. “This wine-growing region owes everything to the river,” explains Audebert. It is the origin, lifeline, natural paradise. “The Gironde created the fertile soils, enabled wines to be shipped all over the world, and its mild climate protected the vines.” But what is the difference between the banks? “On Canon I conduct a string quartet, on Rauzan-Ségla a symphony orchestra,” describes Audebert. Because the terroir of Merlot and Cabernet Franc in Saint-Émilion is pure limestone. The soils in Margaux, on the other hand, are a geological mosaic. Four different grapes grow there in 21 different soil formations, which are only blended at the very end to create a perfect vintage.

The big challenge of the future is climate change. The conversion to organic farming is ongoing. “Organic is more than a label for us,” says Audebert. “Organic stands for water protection, biodiversity, fair wages. In short: We want to hand the country over to the next generation in a healthier way.? But to be fair you have to admit that you have to be able to “afford organic viticulture”. All this experimentation results in reduced harvests. And not everyone has a company like Chanel behind them that understands that this type of wine growing is a long-term investment. “We see ourselves as pioneers. And hope to be able to set new standards so that the change will eventually be worthwhile for everyone.?

Nicolas Audebert:This is very personal. A product that is shared and appreciated often has a story attached to it. Good wine is balanced and evokes emotions. We say: A good bottle is an empty bottle.

N.?A.:Large glasses with a wide mouth and a slim shape are ideal for enjoying all the flavors.

N.?A.:This is particularly important for old vintages. After years of sleep, wine needs time to wake up. Decanting gently enriches the wine with oxygen so that it can develop its bouquet. Please be careful not to damage the old cork. And the sediment must remain in the bottle.

N.?A.:Our chefs combine old vintages with raw fish, young vintages with stronger fish. The most important thing is the sauce that combines the wine with the fish. A “Château Canon 2016” is recommended as a pairing.

N.?A.:Opening a bottle means sharing a moment. When choosing, imagine the story you want to tell your guests and the emotions you want to convey. Perfect: a “Château Canon 2014”.

N.?A.:For large groups, a magnum or double magnum bottle of “Château Rauzan-Ségla 2009” is available. ideal. Magnum bottles offer optimal ripening conditions.

N.?A.:Depending on the vintage?? For ?Bordeaux? We recommend at least ten years.

N.?A.:Our wines have stood the test of time. With our daily precision and passion, we position it in the best possible way as an investment in the future. Wine is always a winning bet on future moments of emotion. The “Château Rauzan-Ségla 2016” will provide good surprises.

In the portfolio since 2019: The winery "Domaine de L'Ile" on the island of Íle de Porquerolles? Rosé and white wine are grown here: