This season was not overlooked: who was missing the New York catwalks! Neither the Duo Proenza Schouler showed (the two designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez announced shortly before the fashion weeks that they left their specially founded label). Gabriela Hearst (she shows again in Paris this season) or 3.1 Phillip Lim. Still Tommy Hilfiger or Ralph Lauren. But that gave young designers such as Luar, Diotima and Collina Strada and everyone else to show more space and attention why New York still counts in the fashion calendar despite everything.
What was to be seen? Sophisticated Sportswear, Power-Dressing, Lots of Casual Pants Suits, Cape coats and lots of leather. And very personal moments! Joseph Altuzarra was hugged by his little daughters on the runway after the show. Coach designer Stuart Vevers from his son. Thom Browne presented his partner Andrew Bolton a wonderful bouquet of origami flowers. And Ulla Johson dedicated the collection to her recently deceased mother.
After the re-election of Donald Trump, the first fashion Week also urged the question: What does the woman wear as a reflection on the current rearing of the macho culture and toxic "manosphere"? Sensually feminine or more combative masculine? The answer: what she wants, but with self -confidence. The New York designers are on the safe side and remained loyal to their own style DNA. The exciting start this season: Calvin Klein's long -awaited runway return. And the grand finale: Thom Brown's wonderful poetic performance in the "The Shed".
Pure Poesie bei Thom Browne
Among 2000 hand-folded origami dust, accompanied by bird twittering and piano music, the US designer presented his new collection. One thing is certain: Nobody in New York dominates the high level of tailor like Thom Browne! Every look a tailoring masterpiece with finesse! There was an unusually large amount of color to see, albeit in steamed tones. A lot of tweed, dreamlike oversize coats, wrinkles with high and low hem ends and narrow pants, which were often decorated with birds. Surprising: lots of pastel Gingham-Karos. Absolute highlight: the extra long and colorful ostrich spring eyelashes that converted the models into mystical beings. The origami dust are a symbol of hope, said Thom Browne before the show. And one thing is certain: the world cannot currently get enough of that!
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Best of Michael Kors
It is hardly possible to reinvent New York aesthetics every season. But what Michael Kors always succeeds: to stay true to himself. The result this season: 56 power looks, of which you want to have everyone! A collection full of Michael Kors' hits and classics. The silhouette: oversized. Implemented with blazers, vests, trouser suits, rolls and coats in black, gray, camel, and: brown! Despite all the masculine cuts, the designs skillfully play with sex appeal: shoulder-free cuts, bustiers under blazers, deep cutouts. We love!
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Floral abundance at Carolina Herrera
"I gave everything this season to make Herrera younger and sexier," said creative director Wes Gordon. "Everything is more so often than usual and plays around the body even softer." The Carolina Herrera-Designer sent his models through a Skyscraper floor with 3000 red, long-stemmed ranunculus, with a view of the city. The garden as an inspiration was shown in this collection by flowers as pressure, lace, embroidery, brooches on clothes, coats, capes and jumpsuits. Our favorites: casual white XXL-Tunika cotton shirts over long black tire skirts made of lace. These looks cover everything: sexy, young, romantic and cool!
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Tory Burch: sporty meets classic
As "Twisted American Sportswear", Tory Burch describes her new collection and couldn't have met it better. Casual falling training pants made of high-quality Japanese wool-jersey combined them with blazers, wool cardigans and polo sweaters in rugby shirt look. In terms of color, Braun played the leading role. The New Yorker also played with sleeves, draped her like scarves on sweaters, combined her slit to be tricked and let her out extra long and wide on shirts, clothes and blazers. In addition, Tory Burch sent voluminous, knee -playing skirts over the catwalk on two floors in the The Museum of Modern Art. Those who looked closely discovered small mice on the ankles of the silk tights. "I have women decide how to classically define," said Burch's conclusion.
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Coach is inspired by 90ies nostalgia
Coach designer Stuart Vevers scored this season with strong statement jackets and coats: floor-length coats with high collar and narrow shoulders, bomber and caban jackets and blazer made of leather, shearling and wool. In addition: casual oversize pants in the extra and long skater look. He also combined this with silk flapper dresses in the vintage look. Feel-good accessories: Small cuddly toys dangled on the bags as a perfect contrast to the urban cool looks. The live band Nation of Language underlined the retro-nineteer spirit!
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Ulla Johnson hopes hopefully in a golden warm times
The most personal show of the week: Ulla Johnson dedicated her to her recently deceased mother Jasmina Draškovič-Johnson. An artist who worked a lot with gold leaf. So the catwalk shone like liquid gold. And in the first designs, gold played the successful leading role: golden clothes, gold-through tweed and golden lamé points on black tulle dresses. This was followed by comfortably warm earth and natural tones, a lot of olive green, curry yellow, brown and a few highlights in pink violet. As always, ultrar -romantic dresses with ruffles, grinding and embroidery were part of the repertoire. Otherwise, Johnson relied on handicrafts and collaborated with the Dutch textile artist Claudy Jongstra, who breed her own sheep and color her yarn with natural plant colors. The result: felted, long coats-Statement Pieces for snuggling up!
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Khaite: Cool leather looks in all variations
Khaite designer perfects with every new collection Catherine Holstein her uniform of the Urban Cool! For the next autumn/winter, it means a lot of black leather and successful contrasts made of tender and hard as well as cool and cozy! A long, white roughly knitted skirt to a skin-tight, transparent black wool polo. Or a rough white knitting sweater for an elegant, long leather skirt. As always, Holstein relies on deconstructed cuts with perfection craftsmanship. Rather surprising: Leo patterns on tops, blazers, pants and skirts. And looks in Bordeauxrot!
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Altuzarra: The mix does it
Joseph Altuzarra sent a successful mix of materials, styles, colors and silhouettes over the catwalk. A little bit of everything! Cuddly wool sweaters, flowing floor-length skirts and clothes, skin-tight jumpsuits, a maxi shearling jacket, tweed sets. From skin and body -emphasized to casual wide and oversized. Special eye -catchers: an ultra -colored, navy -colored, almost floor -length cape and a brown shaggy poncho over wide cord pants. Conclusion: There is something for every occasion and every type of woman!
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Calvin Klein: puristisches Comeback
Calvin Klein had reason to celebrate! After a six-year runway break, the New York fashion house returned this season with the new creative director Veronica Leoni. The 41-year-old Italian is the first woman at the top. The designer Calvin Klein was personally present (at the age of 82), welcomed guests such as Kate Moss and Christy Turlington. Leoni has set number safely and let Calvin Klein revive the puristic look with respect: minimalist power dressing with architectural cuts and flowing fabrics (not to be overlooked that she was previously designed by Jil Sander, Phoebe Philos Celine and The Row!). Say, blazer (many without collar), suits, pencil skirts and coats in neutral colors and in body -hugging silhouettes. No big risks, but a lot of favorite parts. The biggest statements: the monochrome layering looks in black and white, draped Jersey dresses and a wrap tuxedo! Calvin Klein's judgment at the end of the show: "For the debut, pretty extraordinary!" He is right.
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