Oleander multiply: cut the cuttings and pull properly based on this instructions

Would you like to multiply your oleander? Now the right time point is to cut and pull cuttings. With the next step-by-step instructions you will quickly get new plants.

Oleander multiply through cuttings: The best method with a gardening yard

With its filigree, delicate pink flowers and dark green leaves, it is a real eye -catcher in the garden, on the balcony or the terrace. The exotic sneaked into the hearts of the hobby gardeners who like to multiply him. There are four methods of how to multiply the oleander, the most effective has proven the variant with cuttings.

Warning: Oleander is poisonous in all parts of the plant, so you should definitely take the necessary safety measures when dealing with the plant. This includes wearing garden gloves in particular, under no circumstances touch the face during gardening and immediately dispose of all plant remains. You should clean the garden shoes and the tool thoroughly.

The other multiplication methods and their disadvantages:

  • GenerativePlant increase over seeds: Rarely succeeds because there are now many types of hybrid. The daughter plants differ significantly from the mother plant.
  • Propagation about division: In principle it is possible, but young oleanders tolerate a division very badly and the growth form of the larger specimens does not allow it.
  • Finishing: You have to have certain experience so that this method works well. The right cutting technique is crucial for the end result.

Fortunately it isMethod with cuttingsQuite easy and does not require specialist knowledge. We offer simple instructions and explain step by step how you get new plants.

In late summer, the right time is to increase

In late summer, when the flowering period is slowly coming to an end, the best time is to increase. The plants are no longer in all their energy in flower formation and the cuts will cure faster. In the middle of August, a nourishing cut takes place anyway, where you can cut off one -year -old shoots.

In addition, the cuttings have enough time to train their root work and grow into young plants before the growth season ends in early September and the plant is slowly preparing for winter rest.

The necessary materials and accessories

You need the following materials and accessories:

1. For the cuttings:

  • Growing pot
  • Breeding
  • Sand for better drainage
  • Compound
  • Kiessteine
  • Wurzelhormon
  • Charcoal powder for sealing the interface
  • Garden scissors or pruning shears
  • Garden gloves

2. For the young plants:

  • Plant pot for the young plants, preferably from Terracotta
  • Breeding
  • Sand for better drainage
  • Compound
  • Kiessteine

The multiplication of oleander plants via cuttings takes place in four simple steps.

1. First, the growing pot is properly filled with substrate. A drainage layer is laid and compost incorporated.

2. You cut the cuttings and disinfect the interfaces.

3. You plant the cuttings and wait until they root and form leaves.

4. The young plants are repotted.

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Make the growth for Oleander yourself

Layer the growth, gravel stones, compost and sand as follows:

The lower layer consists of gravel stones and is intended to improve drainage. Then place a medium layer of organic compost and sand and at the top there is a mixture of growing earth and quartz sand.

When the cuttings form roots, they will first absorb nutrients from the upper layer via the irrigation water. Over time, the roots will also grow through the middle layer and find valuable nutrients for leaf formation there. When the plant roots reach the drainage layer, they must be repotted into a bucket.

Cut the cuttings correctly

Now you have to cut the cuttings. One or two-year-old shoots that have no flowers are best suited. The cuttings should be around 20 cm long and have no flower buds. Cut them directly under a leaf couple remove all leaves to the upper three and cut them off in half.

Read too:Cut the oleander for beginners after hibernating

Cut the cuttings at the top and sprinkle them with charcoal powder to seal the cutting wound and prevent infestation from fungal spores, bacteria and fungi. You can sprinkle the lower part of the cuttings (on request) with root hormone. Put the lower end of the cuttings about 2 cm deep into the earth.

Proper care promotes growth

Place the growing pots on a warm, sunny, wind and rain-protected place in the garden (at temperatures above 18 degrees Celsius). If August is cold and rainy, you can put the growing pot on a sunny windowsill.Pour the young plantsDaily from below, never let the floor dry completely. Then it's time to wait. Watch the three leaves at the top - if you do not blossom, yellow or fall off, then everything is fine and you just have to be patient. The first sign that the young plants have trained their root work are the new leaf buds. From this moment on, you can pour the cuttings less frequently and place the plants in a place where you can get morning sun.

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