Have you ever admired blessed women with high cheekbones or well-proportioned faces? Have you ever thought wistfully about how “unhappy” you are because your facial proportions don't seem to be perfect? Stop it! You can contour and highlight your face in less than 10-15 minutes. Shading and modeling the face are a make-up technique that can be used to emphasize or darken the contours of the face using light and shadow. With this method one strives for beauty through illusion. Painters use light and dark colors to create the illusion of valleys and hills in a painting, while star make-up artists would tell you that the clever play of light and shadow can conjure up heights and depths, distance and shape on the face. Use this trick and you can look like a movie star every day. Even Kim Kardashian and Angelina Jolie do it!
We spoke to world-renowned professional makeup artist Danielle Dinkova. She has been involved in professional and art make-up for film, stage and festive occasions for more than 15 years. In close collaboration with fashion magazines and television channels such as FashionTV, Glamour, Eva, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, Btv and Ntv, the renowned make-up artist designs creative, new looks. The make-up artist revealed the secret techniques and tricks of the professionals exclusively for us. In just 10 steps you can have your facecontour perfectly, make your nose look narrower or your cheekbones look higher. Perfectly shaped eyebrows are also essential. We're not just talking about the tendency for exotic and thick eyebrows, but about the right frame for your eyes. In the following article we will show you how to choose the best eyebrow shape for you and give a few tips on how to properly apply make-up to eyes that are close together or wide apart.
DEAVITA:Please explain to our readers which products are best for contouring and highlightingfacialto achieve an impeccable look?
Danielle Dinkova:I prefer to work with creamy makeup products due to their high pigment density. I work with Make-up Studio Professional Make-up products. I can always dilute the product with a base and make it lighter, but if I want to cover, for example, dark circles under the eyes, skin pigmentation from the sun or freckles, then the liquid product would be useless.
Apply makeup professionally in 10 easy steps
For an optimal result, I will explain to you in steps which parts need to be lightened and which darkened in order to give the face the right shape and volume.
Step 1: Brighten and blend the area around the eyes
Apply cream concealer PH10944/1 or PH0645/1 with concealer brush S2025 or corrector brush PH0845
First, clean and hydrate your face well. Apply light cream concealer to the area around the eyes, nostrils, corners of the mouth and to the forehead, chin and cheekbones.
Step 2: Model the face and nose
Apply cream concealer PH10944/4 or PH0645/4 with concealer brush S2025 or corrector brush PH0845
DEAVITA:at homePlease tell us the secret of how we can make a nose appear narrower or large cheeks and chin appear smaller. How can we create perfect make-up?
Danielle Dinkova:This is the most important element of makeup! Perfect symmetry can only be achieved in a few steps. I will introduce you to the process with pictures. Using a dark concealer, draw a line from the tip of the ear to the corner of the mouth. The location of this line depends on the shape of the face. If her face is round, you need to draw this line higher. For a long face shape, it should be parallel to the lower jaw. To visually make the nose smaller and narrower, darken the sides of the nose and the wings of the nose.
Step 3: Model the neck
Apply cream concealer PH10944/4 or PH0645/1 with concealer brush S2025 or corrector brush PH0845
Apply the dark concealer along the lower jaw and on the chin. In this way, a double chin can be concealed.
Step 4: Blend everything together nicely
Apply Fond de Teint Face it PH0668 with foundation brush S2007 or PH0845
Apply a base shade of Fond de Teint to blend all products well.
Step 5: Polish and fix the primer
DEAVITA:Danielle, tell our readers how we can reduce the unwanted shine of oily skin?
Danielle Dinkova:For perfect-looking skin and a long-lasting effect, we need to set the foundation with translucent powder (Mineral Extra Fine) to avoid sebum accumulation and reduce unwanted shine. In this way, the accumulation of the fond de teints in nasolabial and eye wrinkles is also prevented. The foundation will last all day.
Apply powder PH5701/1 with make-up brush PH3000 or make-up sponge PH10030
Step 6: How to shape perfect eyebrows?
DEAVITA:According to the latest beauty trend from Hollywood, eyebrows can be as natural as possible and thick, but still emphasized. What else do we need to know about it?
Danielle Dinkova: The eyebrows frame the eyes, so how they lie on your face is crucial. For this reason, I will show you how you can create the perfect proportions yourself.
Eyebrow powder PH0617/B or D with brush S2021 and PH1163Z
Comb brows and remove any excess pigment with a spiral brush. Apply eyebrow powder with a slightly angled brush for precisely defined and thick eyebrows. If you don't have eyebrow powder, this effect can also be achieved with a waterproof eyebrow pencil. You need to be sure that it won't smudge during the day.
For perfectly shaped eyebrows, follow the instructions below:
1. The brow should start where the imaginary line from the wing of the nose to the inner corner of the eye ends.
Tipp:
– If the eyes are far apart, i.e. if the distance between them is more than one eye, the eyebrows must be close to the line described above.
– If your eyes are close together, it is better to increase the distance between your eyebrows.
2. In order to achieve perfect symmetry and visually enlarge the eye for a cat-eye look, we still have to draw a line from the wing of the nose to the middle of the pupil. This is where the highest point of the eyebrow is.
3. You can determine the end point of the eyebrows by drawing a line from the wing of the nose to the outer corner of the eye.
Tip: If your eyes are slanted (sad look), it is recommended to extremely shorten the line between the end and high point of the eyebrow.
Step 7: Highlight cheekbones
Apply highlighter mousse PH10904/1 with PH3000 brush
DEAVITA:Is there an alternative to surgery to enhance cheekbones?
Danielle Dinkova:This is a very important moment when contouring your face. The face is not a flat canvas, but a landscape with ups and downs. There are parties that need to be highlighted and those that need to be concealed in order to achieve perfection. To achieve maximum effect, it is important to emphasize the cheekbones with a highlighter.
Apply the highlighter in a V-line - from the outer end of the brow to the cheekbones. Please see the picture.
Step 8: Apply blush
Stylistically, it is extremely important to choose the blush, lipstick and nail polish in a similar shade, similar to how to combine the accessories with the outfit (handbag, belt, scarf and others). The blush should be applied to the area that has already been contoured with the dark concealer. (See steps 2 and 7)
Rouge refill PH0611
Step 9: Apply mascara
Mascara Base PH0617 and black mascara PH10703
DEAVITA:How can eyelashes appear thicker and longer?
Danielle Dinkova:To add volume to the lashes, first apply Mascara Base to the upper and lower lashes. Normally the base is white, but don't worry because in about 2 minutes it will become completely transparent. Now you can apply the mascara. You can choose between dark brown, anthracite, waterproof or 3D depending on your mood.
Step 10: Apply lipstick
Use a nude lip gloss to define the lip shape and apply sheer gloss to the center of the bottom lip to make the mouth appear fuller.
Danielle Dinkovahas worked on numerous international film and television projects in London, Paris, Moscow, Athens and Sofia. She is a distributor of the Make-up Studio Professional Make-up brand.