Saving oleanders in sub-zero temperatures: This is how you can avoid frost damage!

The weather is particularly changeable in April. Yesterday the sun was shining and the temperatures made us dream of summer, today low temperatures are expected again. A challenge for all potted plants, but especially for the oleander. How can you save the oleander in sub-zero temperatures and what should you do if it has already suffered frost damage?

Oleander in sub-zero temperatures: Yellow, wilted leaves are signs of frost damage

My oleander is my pride and joy. Unfortunately, the shrub is partially hardy and cannot tolerate temperatures below -5° Celsius. It should actually be ok, because the permanent frost should already be over by the end of April. But then the bad surprise – snow and wind ruined my favorite exotic car at the weekend. Today the bush is very yellowed, not only the leaves, but also the shoots and branches. Can he still be saved? Luckily, its main shoots are bending - a sign that the plant has not completely dried out. Although these shoots will no longer form new branches, there is hope that the plant will recover and after anourishing pruningdrives out again. This is only possible if the potting soil is not frozen. If the ground is frozen, the roots of the plant are also damaged.

Deep pruning can revive the frostbitten shrub

Severe pruning can help the oleander. On the one hand, dead shoots are removed in this way. Frost spots are entry points for bacteria, mold and viruses. Pests can also quickly spread on the yellowed leaves. On the other hand, pruning can encourage renewed growth.

I proceeded as follows when editing:

1. I'll just wait until the frost days come to an end. Once this temporary period is over, I cut the oleander back. Otherwise you risk further frost damage to the interfaces.
2. When all above-ground parts of the plant - shoots, side shoots, twigs and leaves - are yellow and dry, I cut the bush back above the first leaf bud. Practically as close to the ground as possible.
3. If the main shoot is still green (but not mushy!), then I shorten the bush by a third and wait. If it forms leaves again, then the caring cut was sufficient for the time being.
4. I then additionally protect the plant from frost with fleece. The weather has been so changeable in recent years that frost suddenly sets in after 30 degrees Celsius. If the oleander has already formed leaves, it is particularly susceptible. In this case, I either place it in a heated greenhouse or, if there is no more space there, on a house wall protected from rain and wind. I place the bucket on Styrofoam coasters and wrap it in fleece so that the ground doesn't freeze. The plant itself is also wrapped with translucent fleece.

1. I initially water plants that have been cut back sparingly. Only when they start to form new shoots and when the weather becomes warm and sunny again do I adjust the watering.
2. I also wait before fertilizing and give the shrub time to recover. Two to three weeks after pruningI'm giving liquid fertilizer for the first time. In the summer months I fertilize the exotic once a week to promote leaf and flower formation and to cover the nutrient requirements.