The word “acid” evokes associations with bubbling test tubes and scary chemical burns. But with the right concentrationBeauty acidsone of the best active ingredients in skin care today. They are real miracle cures for acne, wrinkles, age spots, hyperpigmentation and scars and conjure up a flawless complexion. However, with so many beauty products containing acids on the market, it can be overwhelming to figure out which products to use for what. The trick is to choose the right acid that meets your skin's specific needs. Today we will tell you what mandelic acid peeling is and what benefits it has for the skin.
Mandelic acid is used in over-the-counter skin care products and professional chemical peels. It is the gentlest of all alpha hydroxy acids, making it safe to use on a wide range of skin types. Mandelic acid is an excellent choice for beginners when it comes to acid peels and is suitable for almost all skin types -from oily to mature to sensitive skin. Instead of just removing the top layer of skin, it penetrates deeper into the pores.
What is mandelic acid?
You've probably heard of glycolic acid and lactic acid in skin care. Compared to these active ingredients, mandelic acid was previously not as well known in the beauty industry. But that's starting to change as more and more skincare brands add them to their product lines.
Mandelic acid is obtained from bitter almonds. She does belong to theFamily of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)like glycolic acid and lactic acid, but is gentler and gentler. AHAs remove dead skin cells and gently renew the skin. They stimulate cell division by breaking the bonds between cells. They also help to clean the pores and create an even complexion.
What sets mandelic acid apart from its AHA relatives is the size of its molecules. Their molecules are larger than all other alpha hydroxy acids used in skin care. Its molecules are twice the size of glycolic acid. Why does this matter? The larger molecules of mandelic acid penetrate the skin much more slowly than the smaller molecules. For this reason, it is much gentler and can cause much less irritation to the skin.
Just because mandelic acid is absorbed slowly doesn't mean you would feel anything. It just means that the acid penetrates the skin layers much more slowly than, for example, glycolic acid. Everything happens at the molecular level.
What benefits does mandelic acid peeling have for the skin?
Regular use of mandelic acid peeling can help improve many skin problems. The results you get with mandelic acid, like almost all skin care ingredients, are cumulative: the longer you use it, the better results you will see.
Freshens the complexion
As an exfoliator, mandelic acid improves your complexion and gives it an even tone. Skin feels softer, smoother and looks more radiant.
Against hyperpigmentation and melasma
Mandelic acid can help reduce hyperpigmentation of all types: sun or age spots, freckles, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.
Helps with pimple and acne scars
Although it is not used alone to treat acne, it can be incorporated into an acne treatment routine to clear pores and reduce comedones. Mandelic acid has an antibacterial effect and can therefore be particularly helpful in reducing inflammatory acne. It can also help get rid of dark spots.
Against wrinkles and fine lines
Mandelic acid is a popular anti-aging ingredient in the world of skin care. It can help reduce fine lines, and long-term use can improve skin firmness and elasticity. However, it does not really reduce facial wrinkles, such as: B. the lines between your eyebrows (aptly called “11s”). However, if your skin is dry, some studies have shown that mandelic acid can stimulate the skin to produce more sebum or natural oil.
Gentle peeling for all skin types
Mandelic acid is the gentlest of all alpha hydroxy acids and can therefore be used by a wider range of skin types, including those with sensitive skin and rosacea. Even people who can't use other AHAs can often use mandelic acid without causing irritation. It's particularly good for skin that's prone to discoloration because it doesn't cause inflammation and hyperpigmentation like other AHAs do.
Possible side effects
Compared to other AHA treatments, mandelic acid products and peels are more skin-friendly and side effects are rarely observed. However, all alpha hydroxy acid products can cause side effects. These are more likely to occur if you start with a high percentage of the mandelic acid product.
The most common side effects are:
Dry and flaky skin
Peeling skin
Irritation or redness
Skin that feels tender or sensitive
Mandelic acid peels promote the outbreak of cold sores. (This doesn't just apply to mandelic acid; many chemical peels can cause a cold sore outbreak, as can microdermabrasion).
If you suffer from frequent cold sores, consider having your peel done by a dermatologist instead of an esthetician, or use a very gentle at-home peel. A dermatologist can prescribe antiviral medications to prevent an outbreak. This is especially important to keep in mind if you are having peels done in preparation for a big event, such as a wedding.
Do not combine mandelic acid with prescription topical medications unless your dermatologist recommends it.
Choosing the right beauty treatment
As mandelic acid becomes more popular, more and more products containing this AHA are coming to market. It's great to have so many options, but how do you know which ones are right for you?
Non-prescription over-the-counter products for use at home
For a more radiant complexion and the improvement of minor skin imperfections and discolorations, over-the-counter products or derma cosmetics are the perfect choice. Mandelic acid is found as an ingredient in face washes and toners, but is most commonly used as a facial serum and exfoliator.
Facial serums are products for everyday use. They are applied after cleansing (and after treatment with facial toner) and before applying cream. Facial serums are leave-on products and do not wash off. Most mandelic acid facial serums are only used in the evening.
Mandelic acid peels are stronger than serums. You should use this a maximum of a few times a week. Because they generally contain a higher percentage of mandelic acid, peels provide immediate, visible results, but can also be more irritating. It is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.
Be aware that using a mandelic acid product along with another peel or acne treatment may cause excessive dryness and irritation. If your skin becomes irritated, do not use mandelic acid on days when you are using another exfoliator.
Professional chemical peels
Stronger professional mandelic acid peels can be used to treat more serious cases of hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, as well as severe pigmentation caused by acne. Superficial peels (microdermabrasion) are performed by an esthetician in a salon or medical spa center, and deeper peels are performed by a dermatologist. To treat acne, mandelic acid is typically combined with salicylic acid.
During a peeling, a mandelic acid solution is applied to your face and left to work for a specific amount of time, depending on your skin type. It is not painful, but you may feel a tingling or burning sensation during treatment. With superficial peels, you may not notice any side effects at all. After a deeper peel, your skin will peel and be renewed for a few days.
Mandelic acid peels have a lower potential for side effects thanGlycolic acid peelsand are preferred for people prone to hyperpigmentation. However, this is not a one-time treatment. As with all chemical peels, a series of peeling therapies must be performed to achieve good results. Most often, pro-peels are done once a week for six to eight weeks (although the exact treatment schedule depends on your skin and desired results).
After the first peel, you will notice that your skin is softer, brighter and smoother. However, don't expect discoloration and fine lines to noticeably improve after the first procedure. The results are starting to show.
Tips for using mandelic acid peels
Whether you use OTC products or pro peels, there are a few things you can do to achieve optimal results.
Choose one at the beginningProduct with a low concentration of mandelic acid, such as 5% or 10%, so that your skin can get used to the effects of the acid. A highly concentrated peel can cause skin irritation, redness and itching. The higher the percentage of mandelic acid, the greater the risk of side effects. You can still achieve good results with lower concentration peels if you use them consistently. Acid peels containing 40% or 50% mandelic acid are used for peeling therapies in beauty salons.
Apply sunscreen daily.AHA peels, serums, etc. can make your skin extremely sensitive to sunlight. Whether you use an over-the-counter peel at home or have peel therapy, you should use SPF 30 or higher every day to protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun.
Summary
The biggest benefit of mandelic acid is its gentle nature. Other AHAs and topical retinoids may work faster and are generally more effective, but are not tolerated by all skin types. For more sensitive skin types, mandelic acid is a very good option. If you use medical skin care, be sure to get your dermatologist's approval before adding anything to your current skin care routine. No matter what type of mandelic acid treatment you choose, be prepared for slow and consistent results. Be consistent and patient!
