There are some sustainable ways to convert organic material into garden compost by building a DIY worm bin. In the process, different types of worms digest biological waste such as food scraps to make fertilizer for any plants. So instead of buying pre-made versions that cost a lot and take up space, you can make your own worm bin. With affordable materials and simple steps, you can create cost-effective vermicomposting in your own home. Below you will find instructions and practical tips that you can follow to complete this great DIY project without much effort.
Use the right compost worms and build your own worm box
While any type of earthworm breaks down organic material into usable compost, vermicomposting is best done with a specific species called Eisenia fetida, which is known as the dungworm or dungworm. These species produce a significantly larger volume of digestive waste than othersEarthworms from the garden soil. In addition, they reproduce very quickly and tend to remain on the surface while feeding. This means that they will quickly start consuming new materials as you add them to the container. Such compost worms also thrive at normal indoor temperatures, making them ideal for indoor vermicomposting.
In addition, such a do-it-yourself worm composter is structured in such a way that the worms start on one level with bedding and food. When this level is filled so that the worms digest it andturn into vermicompostcan, start adding food and bedding to the next level. The worms then instinctively migrate to this level, leaving behind finished vermicompost that you can use in your garden.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm boxes are compact, odor-free and work faster than normal composting. As described above, they use the digestive ability of worms to convert rotting plant material into nutrient-rich fertilizer for garden or house plants. This will provide you with both rich compost and a brown liquid called “worm tea,” which you can dilute and use as a liquid fertilizer.
The ongoing practice is to switch back and forth between the two worm bins to empty the finished worm castings. You then need to add fresh food and bedding while the worms break it down for you. The third container forms the bottom of the stack and is used to collect the worm tea that is a byproduct of the other two containers. Below is a guide to making the simple composting system using the following materials and tools:
- 3 stacking containers or buckets with lids, preferably with approximate dimensions of 40 x 50 x 20 cm, or depending on the space available
- 4 pieces of heavier stones or bricks
- Newspaper
- Peat-free compost, usually labeled as such
- Compost worms
- A drill
Follow simple steps and build your own worm bin
- First, take two of the boxes and drill lots of holes through their bottoms as well as a modest number of holes through their sides. These allow air to circulate through the boxes and allow the worms to move between containers. They also allow the liquid to drain into the lower box.
- Then place the third box in a shady area and place two stones in the ground.
- Stack one of the other containers into this box and then place the other two bricks inside.
- First place the last box without stones on top.
- Next, line the top box with newspaper and add three inches of moist compost.
- Then add the worms and some more compost.
- Cover everything with newspaper and place the lid on the top box.
- Then let the mixture sit for a week to allow the worms to establish themselves.
- You can now start feeding the worms with your leftover food.
- Examples of suitable food waste include plastic-free tea bags, banana peels, vegetable peels, coffee grounds and eggshells. However, do not add too much citrus fruits, garlic or onions, or meat or dairy waste. You can also use shredded newspaper or cardboard, which can help maintain proper moisture levels.
- Once the top worm bin is full, switch to the middle box and add food to the empty top bin. The worms then slowly move into the new box. Adding some compost from the full box can help encourage the worms to move around. Once the worms have migrated out of the box, you can dump the compost in your garden.
- Periodically empty all liquids from the bottom box and dilute it with ten parts water to use as fertilizer.
Worm composting care tips
The so-called vermicompost is a living system that also requires a little experimentation to keep vermicompost running successfully. Regularly monitor the mixture of kitchen scraps that you add to the worm composter. Compost worms are quite voracious and can eat up to their own body weight per day, but if you add too much the worms won't be able to keep up. On the other hand, they can survive without food for a few weeks, so you can go on vacation and not have to worry about it. Here are a few more tips for maintenance and care if you build a worm bin yourself.
- Too much wet waste can make your worm infestation stink, while too much dry compost can slow the process. In this case, newspapers and cardboard will help.
- A well-maintained worm bin should not smell and can be easily stored indoors when needed in the house. However, if you want to set it up outdoors, you should think carefully about the best location for it. The composting facility needs some protection from bad weather conditions. For example, placing the composter against a wall or fence will protect it from too much sun or rain.
- You may need to reduce the amount of waste in colder weather. As temperatures drop, compost worms become slower and even become inactive when the thermometer reads below 10°C. If it gets very cold where you live in the winter, you can protect the worms from freezing by using old carpet orreused bubble wrapwrap around the composter.
- Keep the worm bin away from direct sunlight as this can be dangerous for the worms. A shady north wall is a good location for summer.
- In very wet weather, ensure the lid is securely closed and the worm bins are not flooded with water.
